This trip is testing me in a lot of ways. It’s testing my patience, obviously, which is a difficult necessity. I’m not a patient person. I am insanely introverted by nature. But travelling forces me to connect, to talk to strangers, to put on a happy & friendly front, even when I just can’t be f—-d with anyone. It’s also testing my ability to adapt. I hate change, I struggle being away from a routine, so again, I’m learning and growing, I guess. I need to learn and grow more.
Last week, husband and I attended Lievita’s MEET THE MAKER Pizza & Beer Degustation night. Pizza and beer… clearly didn’t take much to get us there!
Fury and Son Brewing Company are relatively new on the scene, and have been working with Luca from Lievita over the past 12 months or so on their beer range. They decided to celebrate the launch of their new American Red Ale in style, with an exceptional menu of insane pizzas matched with the range of beers they stock and sell. I’m not a beer drinker, so I’m letting husband step in here, to tell you a bit more about the liquid gold…
* Baccala marinated with lemon & garlic, and chickpea cream
*Smoked salmon, stracchino, shitake mushrooms and dill (one of my favourites!)
Was really nice. A lot of pilsners just taste like mass produced lagers that don’t have a lot of flavour, however this one did. Plenty of flavour but still easy to drink. Keen to get my hands on a slab ASAP.
* Fontina, onion, white anchovies and hot chilli
* Coppa, roasted eggplants, roasted peppers and stracciatelle
Beer: Pale Ale
Was said to be full of flavour but I found it to be a bit lacking in that department. Stock standard pale ale, nothing too exciting, no different to other pale ales on the market, a sentiment echoed by Chicago Steve (also present – friend of Jess’s dad, fellow beer lover).
* Slow roasted eye fillet and potato (my other favourite!)
* Slow roasted pork belly, box choy, pickled red cabbage and fig jam
Beer: American Red Ale
I’ve only ever tried two red ales; this and the one from Beechworth. I thought this one was heaps better than Beechworth’s. Strong flavour, suited to the winter months, would stay away from it on a summer day. Yet another one I’d be happy to part with a bit of cash for.
* ‘Pizza fritta’ fried mini dough balls with salted caramel sauce and macadamia nuts
Beer: Scotch Ale
The pick of the bunch and my personal favourite (Jess liked this one too!) but be warned – at 7.5% alcohol, it packs a punch. One or two of these watching the footy at home on a cold night would be perfect! Really strong, malty flavour.
It was great to see so many people there to support both Lievita and Fury & Son, which in turn means supporting local producers, and that’s something we all need to be doing a bit more! And more great news – when you drop in to pick up your pizza, you can also take home some beers with you; their range is all available to take home as well as enjoy in store!
Wish You Were Here
by Sheridan Jobbins Continue reading
1. Take in an amazing view and a delicious meal at Hoa Anh Dao Sakura Restaurant
Where? 119-121 Nguyễn Thái Học, Minh An, tp. Hội An
Why go? It’s one of the fancier restaurants in town, and it’s well worth it. That said, we ordered 6 dishes (including seafood), 3 beers and a cocktail, and got away for around AUD$60.00, which isn’t exactly going to break the bank, as far as fancy feeds go! And if you’re clever, you’ll ask for a seat in the rooftop courtyard, too – the best view in the city!
How long will you need? We were there for about 2 hours – perfect!
Cost? Depends how hungry you are – check out what we ate by following the link below, which cost us around AUD$60.00, and that should give you a good idea!
– Eat here: Hoa Anh Dao Sakura Restaurant, Hoi An, Vietnam
2. Support a good cause by drinking tea and coffee at the Reaching Out Tea House
Where? 131 Tran Phu Street, Hoi An, Vietnam
Why go? The beautiful space is serene and calm, made even more so by the request that guests communicate in whispers. The staff are all speech and hearing impaired, which makes not the smallest bit of difference in their service. If anything, it’s better than any other tea house I’ve ever visited; they were all so gracious, elegant and accommodating. And the tea and coffee variety is fantastic!
How long will you need? We stayed around an hour, but would have happily stayed longer if our tummies weren’t grumbling for dinner.
Cost? Varies a lot depending on what you order
– Tea time: Reaching Out Tea House, Hoi An, Vietnam
3. Up your kitchen game at a Morning Glory cooking class
Where? 3 Nguyen Hoang Street, An Hoi Islet, Hoi An
Why go? This is THE premier cooking school in Hoi An, and as far as I’m concerned, an absolute must! There are a few tours on offer, I’ve done the same one twice now (yes, I enjoyed it that much!): the Holiday Masterclass (including a trip to the market and a cooking lesson you’ll never forget).
How long will you need? This class runs from 8.30am – 1.30pm.
Cost? AUD$40.00 per person, which includes your market tour, cooking class, lunch, recipes and a little gift to take home.
– Morning Glory Cooking Class, Hoi An, Vietnam
4. Cycle the islets of Hoi An with Heaven & Earth Bicycle Tours
Where? Meeting point for tours: 57 Ngo Quyen St. – An Hoi Islet, TP Hoi An
Why go? I don’t particularly enjoy bike riding and was talking into this by my sister; it’s one of the most uncomfortable but incredible things I’ve ever done. We got to see parts of this beautiful country we never would have had the opportunity to see otherwise, led by 2 local women who were some of the loveliest people I’ve ever met. It hurt like hell, but I’d do it again in a heart beat!
How long will you need? We took the REAL VIETNAM tour, running approximately 8am – 5pm.
Cost? Around AUD$60.00 per person, including water bottle and lunch
– Cycling the islets of Hoi An, Vietnam with Heaven & Earth Tours
5. Stuff yourself silly with the city’s famous dish, cao lau
Where? All over Hoi An.
Why go? Ohh cao lau, where have you been all my life?! Thick, chewy noodles, the TASTIEST broth known to mankind, delicious slices of pork and fresh herbs/greens, topped with deep fried pieces of noodle. Magic.
How long will you need? Not long, if you eat as fast as I do when faced with something this good!
Cost? A few dollars.
– Eat here: Miss Ly Cafe 22, Hoi An
6. Walk through the riverside night market and ogle the lanterns
Where? By the riverside, every night.
Why go? If you check out the #hoianlanterns hashtag on Instagram and don’t immediately feel the need to throw yourself into the middle of these perfect balls of light, there may be something wrong with you.
How long will you need? Spend the night walking around by the riverside – not only are there lanterns galore, but it turns into a market place with cheap souvenirs and delicious street food.
Cost? You can bring your own lantern home! The smallest ones cost around AUD$1.00 each – barter though, I ended up with 6 for $5, just because I asked!
– Through my eyes: Hoi An’s lanterns, Vietnam
7. Take a trip out to My Son Sanctuary
Why go? My Son, dated from the 4th to 13th centuries AD, is the former capital of the Champa Kingdom. Set in stunning green, mountain surrounds in the Quang Nam Province near Hoi An, it houses the remains of the Cham temple towers. They’re incredibly old, insanely beautiful, and well worth taking the time to see.
How long will you need? We took a half day tour organised by a small local travel agent we found in Hoi An.
Cost? Honestly can’t remember, but I know it wasn’t much.
– My Son Sanctuary, Hoi An, Vietnam
8. Stuff your face with all of the food at Bale Well
Where? 45 Tran Hung Dao Street, Hoi An
Why go? For a mere sum of AUD$6.00 per person, we got a bottle of water each and an all-you-can-stuff-your-face-with pile of fresh herbs and salad, peanut dipping sauce, stir fried veggies, rice paper, freshly fried spring rolls and BBQd meat on sticks. This is some of the best street food you’ll ever find.
How long will you need? Give yourself at least an hour!
Cost? AUD$6.00 per person will have you rolling out.
– Eat here: Bale Well, Hoi An, Vietnam
9. Drink more tea at Cocobana Tea Rooms & Garden
Where? 16 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An
Why go? Walk on in, and once you’ve breathed a sigh of relief at the air conditioning, you’ll be met with a wall of tea. Oh so much tea… oh so exciting! They have literally dozens of options to choose from, hot and cold, as well as a great coffee menu. And the best part? They’re all available to take home!
How long will you need? We spent about an hour there, but I’d happily stay longer – it’s just got that peaceful, homely atmosphere that you won’t want to leave.
Cost? Depends what you buy, but prices (particularly for take home tea) were very reasonable.
– Tea time: Cocobana Tea Rooms & Garden, Hoi An, Vietnam
10. Just admire the perfection that is the colour yellow all around the city
Where? Everywhere you look
Why go? You’ll quickly notice that Hoi An’s theme is yellow. It’s everywhere, it’s warm and beautiful, and it completely defines the city. Everywhere you look, you see another perfect yellow wall, the same shade as the others, and yet somehow completely different…
– Through my eyes: The Yellow City of Hoi An
Just a quick one today, because I’ve been sick with the flu, and re-reading On The Road while I’ve been couch bound… Also just finished Wish You Were Here, and have a book review, interview with Sheridan and book giveaway coming next week!
From there, I quickly spotted the Beat Museum, then Jack Kerouac Alley in the other direction; Vesuvio Cafe, one of Kerouac’s favourite haunts, lives on the corner. Down the alley and welcome to Chinatown! Like all Chinatowns, it’s manic, full of smells, illegible signs, all that jazz.
The engines make themselves heard, & we pick up pace. Suddenly, I’m looking over Tullamarine’s landscape. Then, we’re shrouded in white. And then, finally, I am looking over the most perfect, bubble-bath froth of pillowy white clouds that I’ve ever seen. We are off.
by Bill Hayes
A while back, I saw a picture of this book on Instagram (can’t for the life of me remember who posted it…); it grabbed my attention, I screen-shotted it to come back to later, and forgot about it. A week later, I was Googling books about/set in some of the cities we’ll be visiting on our big trip, and it came up again, under New York books. Onto my library app I went to reserve it, and I collected it a week later…
“In the haggard buildings and bloodshot skies, in trains that never stopped running like my racing mind at night, I recognized my insomniac self. If New York were a patient, it would be diagnosed with agrypnia excitata, a rare genetic condition characterized by insomnia, nervous energy, constant twitching, and dream enactment – an apt description of a city that never sleeps, a place where one comes to reinvent himself.”
Written by Bill Hayes, a writer and photographer who packed up and left San Francisco for a fresh start in New York, where he made a new life for himself and fell in love with Oliver Sacks, a particularly brilliant neurologist.
When I realised this booked was about Sacks as much as it was about New York, I knew I was meant to read it; I had just completed an online course in psychology from the University of Toronto through Coursera in which Dr Sack’s name came up a few times, with some of his work recommended as further reading.
Back to Insomniac City; Hayes write about his experiences of living in New York as an insomniac, with his writings interspersed with diary and journal entries. I found it to be a really easy read and flew through it in only a few train rides to/from work – while a good part of the book covers their slightly unconventional love story, the parts that really drew me in were Hayes’ recollections of the city itself on those nights sleep evaded him and he went out into the city to explore.
“I’ve lived in New York long enough to understand why some people hate it here: the crowds, the noise, the traffic, the expense, the rents; the messed-up sidewalks and pothole-pocked streets; the weather that brings hurricanes named after girls that break your heart and take away everything.
It requires a certain kind of unconditional love to love living here. But New York repays you in time in memorable encounters, at the very least. Just remember: ask first, don’t grab, be fair, say please and thank you- even if you don’t get something back right away. You will.”
I loved reading about all of his chance encounters with his feller New Yorkers, all of the beautiful dialogues that came simply from asking people if he could take their photo. He writes so charmingly about his adopted city and it’s people; his descriptions all felt so real to me, it was so easy to place myself right there with him…
It was also a wonderful insight into the brilliant mind of Oliver Sacks; there’s so much we could learn from the way he viewed the world, which lead me to his book “Gratitude,” a collection of four of his essays. Highly recommend both for a weekend read 🙂