Eat & drink here: Der Pschorr, Munich

Der Pschorr
Viktualienmarkt, 15, Munich

We were about 48 hours into the Berlin leg of our trip when we began to suspect that these awesome beer halls we’d heard so much about might not be as easy to find as we had expected.

A bit of Google investigating revealed that beer halls actually aren’t a German thing; they’re a Bavarian thing. As in, stop looking for them in Berlin and wait to get to Munich. In preparation for the next stop, husband compiled a list of beer halls declared by the internet to be worthy of our time and stomach space. One of those was Der Pschorr, located in the Viktualienmarkt.

We figured we’d drop in for a post-market shopping beer before moving on for lunch. Spoiler alert: we didn’t.

As beer halls go, Der Pschorr was unrecognisable from the stereotypical underground, dimly lit affairs of the movies. Instead, it was modern and flooded with natural light, still with warm wood finishes and flooring, but you couldn’t imagine pot-bellied old men throwing steins around there. It was more of a hip young bucks night or millennial business meeting kind of place.

I was skeptical. We were there for traditional, old school, not shiny and new. But we took a seat and husband had a beer. He said it was excellent. And in a fantastic throw back to tradition, a small barrel was brought to the bar while husband enjoyed his first beer – this was to be tapped open then and there. He hadn’t tried beer right out of a freshly opened barrel before, so he tried that, too. Excellent again.

Meanwhile, we were getting hungry, so we ordered the snack platter, thinking we’d get a small tasting platter €16.90 seemed pretty reasonable). Wrong again – it was huge, and the variety was great! We had a huge assortment of cured meat, pâté, terrine, cheeses and pickled vegetables, and it wouldn’t have been at all out of place at any fancy restaurant back in Melbourne. And I have to say that despite initial assumptions based on the tacky outfits, the staff were wonderful – they couldn’t have been friendlier or more helpful in their recommendations, and were super efficient, even as the place started to fill up.

While the older, more traditional halls were amazing, this modern twist on an old favourite was a really pleasant surprise – I just wish we’d have had time to go back for a meal!


Oktoberfest V.2 – Cook this: chocolate pretzels

Oktoberfest V.2: SUCCESS.


We had so much fun with Backyard Oktoberfest last year, we decided to do it again this year. Well, that was the plan originally. Then, we started getting a bit more into it, and the ideas got a bit more out of control…


For those of you not married to beer connoisseurs, Oktoberfest is an annual beer festival originating in Germany. For Australians, it’s just a good reason to dress like idiots and drink with your mates. But it’s about more than the beer, I think. I don’t even like beer. I hate it, actually – I imagine beer is what cat piss would taste like. But I love wine. And good food. And having a great night with my friends. And so, on the inebriated success of last year’s slightly impromptu event, we decided to do it all over again this year – just bigger and better.


The backyard BBQ seemed too simple to repeat; we wanted something bigger and better. So we decided to transform the man cave into a beer hall (obviously), which was decorated with (almost too) much enthusiasm. 5000 pretzels were baked (that’s what it felt like, anyway). And not just the regular delicious bready ones to eat with mustard; there were little chocolate ones, too (keep scrolling, the recipe is coming). Cured sausages were sliced and served. Schnitzels crumbed and fried. Potato mixed with copious amounts of bacon and mayo, and called a “salad.” Steins were filled. And emptied. And re-filled. Hell, there were even balloons. And ridiculous outfits.



All that fun aside, I did also promise you a recipe. While some people may think that dessert is unnecessary and potentially even dangerous when there’s drinking going on, I’ve found that, quite to the contrary, cookies are actually the perfect friend to beer and wine. Last year I did Black Forest cookies (which were demolished within half an hour of appearing), but I wanted something a little different this year. Chocolate pretzels.

These were a bit of a challenge because they’re not a standard cookie recipe per se – we’re still using a yeast risen dough to given them the pretzel texture, just adding sugar and cocoa powder to sweeten them and turn them from savoury to sweet. Anyway, it was actually a pretty simple recipe once I tweaked it a bit and practiced a few times – I based my version on the one that appears in the 500 COOKIES cookbook.

Ingredients for the cookies (makes 40-ish)
– 375g plain flour
– 4 tbsp castor sugar
– 3 tbsp brown sugar
– 2 tsp yeast
– 1 cup (240ml) warm water
– 150g butter, melted and cooled
– pinch of salt
– 4 tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder (or same amount of regular cocoa powder, just use half the amount of sugar)

For the icing:
– 1 egg white
– approximately 300g icing sugar
– blue food colouring


1. Combine 4 tbsp on the flour with 2 tbsp of the caster sugar, the yeast and the warm water in a bowl, mix and set aside for 5 minutes.

2. Sift the flour into a large bowl, with a pinch of salt, the rest of the sugar and the cocoa powder.

3. Pour the butter and yeast mix into the flour, and stir to combine completely.

4. Turn the dough out onto a floured board and knead for 5 minutes, until it’s smooth and elastic. Then transfer it to a lightly greased bowl, cover with cling wrap and set aside to rise for 30 minutes.

5. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C and line two oven trays with baking paper.

6. Roll out small pieces of dough and shape as pretzels – how much dough you use depends on how big or small you want your pretzels. To shape them, roll the dough into nice long pieces, bring the two ends up to meet each other, making a long U shape. Twist the ends, fold them back over each other to the bottom of the U, and use a little water dabbed on the ends of them to attach them.

7. Place on the oven trays with a little space between each, and bake 12 minutes, until firm to touch.

8. Once completely cooled, you can ice them with a pretty basic royal icing recipe – just whisk the egg white, then sift the icing sugar in, a half cup or so at a time, until you’re happy with the consistency. I used a little blue food colouring, but you can obviously use whatever colour you want 🙂